It’s been a minute since I’ve done a skincare *product* review – but Ole Henriksen recently sent over a bottle of their newest product release, The Dewtopia 20% Acid Night Treatment, so it felt like the right time to get back to writing!
The serum is housed in a heavy (fancy!) glass pump bottle, and is a yellowish-white color. The texture is wonderful, and lays really well on the skin. It absorbs quickly, and is easy to layer as a result. There is a faint scent of lemon, which honestly kind of reminds me of the Starbucks Lemon Pound Cake. I personally prefer fragrance-free products, but I enjoy the smell of this serum. Dewtopia boasts a whopping 10% AHA and 10% PHA concentration, which is no joke! *See previous blog post here about AHA products* If you’ve read any of my blogs before, you know I’m a huge fan of acid-based products, but I have yet to discuss PHA’s on the blog – they are a lesser known, lesser used chemical exfoliant that works similarly to AHA’s, but is a bit gentler.
After using the serum a few times, I’ve come to like it. It does give me glowing skin when I wake up, but I could see this easily being overused by an acid newbie. Even as a regular exfoliator, I used the serum two nights in a row and peeled a little the next morning. I’d definitely recommend starting slow – once or twice a week, and seeing how your skin tolerates it before using it more frequently. At $55 for a 1 oz bottle, its fairly reasonably priced, but certainly on the high-end side of skincare. If I’m being honest, my real beef with this product is in the ingredient list.
Ingredient list breakdown:
|Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice||skin-soothing plant extract|
|Betula Alba Juice||plant based antioxidant|
|Glycolic Acid||quality exfoliant|
|Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Fruit Water||non-fragrant plant oil (atcs as a humectant)|
|Lactic Acid||quality exfoliant|
|Potassium Hydroxide||alkaline pH modifier (can be sensitizing in large quantities)|
|Sodium Hydroxide||highly alkaline pH modifyer|
|Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate||thickener/skin softening|
|Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract||potentially irritating fragrant plant oil|
|Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate||skin-soothing plant extract|
|Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract||skin-soothing plant extract|
|Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract/Extrait De Canne A Sucre||humectant|
|Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract||plant based antioxidant|
|Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Extract||potentially irritating fragrant plant oil|
|Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil||potentially irritating fragrant plant oil|
|Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Extract,||potentially irritating fragrant plant oil|
|Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate||preservative|
|Sodium Riboflavin Phosphate||skin conditioning agent|
|Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Peel Oil,||potentially irritating fragrant plant oil|
|Sorbitan Isostearate||stabilizing emulsifier|
|Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer||stabilizer/texture enhancer|
|Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate||lab-made antioxidant|
|Dimethylhydroxy Furanone||fragrance additive|
|Limonene||potentially irritating fragrant plant oil|
|Linalool||potentially irritating fragrant plant oil|
|Citral||potentially irritating fragrant plant oil|
For the most part, the ingredient list looks pretty good. My main issue circles back to fragrance – I’m not hardcore opposed to fragrance like some people, but I don’t prefer it in my formulas. This particular formula has quite a bit of potentially irritating fragrant plant oils that just don’t need to be there. Even if they removed a few of them, the formula would still smell lemon-y.
Final Score: 3/5
Pros: great chemical exfoliator, reasonable price point (for high end), great concentration of acid
Cons: High concentration of fragrant plant oils, could be easily over-used
I hope you found this review informative. As always, feel free to reach out with questions/comments.
Until next time,
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This post contains affiliate links. Product was gifted by brand, all opinions are my own.